• Oil changes - usually every 3,000 miles
• Underhood Belts - check with every oil change
  
• Timing belts (where applicable) - usually every 60,000 miles, or 90,000 miles
• Brakes - 6,000 miles or every other oil change. Front brakes usually last 20,000-30,000 miles, rear brakes usually 60,000 miles varies depending on driving habits and conditions
• Transmission services - usually every 60,000
• Coolant services - usually every 2 years, some coolant types are good for 5 years or flush and refill 40,000 to 100,000 miles
• Tires - Tire rotation and wheel balancing I6,000 miles or every other oil change
  
• Wheel alignment - 12,000 to 24,000 miles or as indicated by tire wear
• Hoses - check with every oil change for rot from the inside out. Typically Belt and hose replacement occurs at 60,000 to 100 ,000 miles or 5 to 8 years
• Spark plugs - usually every 30,000, some every 60,000, some every 90,000
• Spark plug wires - usually every 60,000 miles or when they go bad
• Distributor cap and rotor - cars that have them usually every 60,000 miles
• Air filter - should be checked with every oil change. Typically every 12,000 to 24,000 miles or as indicated by inspection.
• Fuel filter - Replace fuel filter 24,000 to 100,000 miles
• Air conditioning - annual check usually performed in the spring

Check your owners manual for a complete list and recommended intervals for your vehicle

Click here to view our recommended Maintenace Schedule by mileage

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Manufacturers are now recommending greater service intervals than before, so it is important to ensure that servicing occurs at the right time. Here are a few things you can do to ensure your car stays in good operating condition all year long.

Maintenance Tips

Checks performed between scheduled services reduce the chances of your vehicle breaking down. Try to establish a regular checking procedure, it need not be long and time consuming, just a few minutes each week if your vehicle is being driven under normal conditions.

Radiator: When the radiator is cold, check that the coolant level is within the range indicated on the overflow reservoir.

Engine Oil: The oil level should preferably be checked when the engine is cold and not running and the vehicle is standing on a level surface. Wipe the dipstick and re-insert fully before checking.

Tires: Ensure tires are inflated according to manufacturer's recommendations. Check for wear and irregularities.

Lights: Check the operation of all lights, indicators and instruments. If a trailer is used remember to check its brake lights and indicators are operating.

Windscreen Washer Fluid: Top up the reservoir with clean water.

Battery: If your battery is of the serviceable type ensure fluids are topped up to recommended levels. Refer to the owner's manual for the correct procedure.

Leaks: Observe the area where your vehicle has been parked to check for oil or other leaks. If you find any leaks, the vehicle should be returned to a servicing agent for inspection.

Familiarise yourself with the general maintenance tips in the owner manual. Report any abnormalities in your vehicle's performance to a servicing agent.

Maintenance of your vehicle also includes keeping it clean and the bodywork in good condition. By keeping the interior clean the vehicle will look much better for resale. Use floor mats to keep the carpet clean. Have bodywork repaired as soon as possible to prevent the onset of rust.

Regular servicing as recommended by manufacturers as well as checks by the driver or nominated fleet person should ensure your vehicle is safe to drive, is running at its most economical and will be in good condition for resale.


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CARING FOR YOUR BATTERY

The battery is a common source of breakdown on the road. A battery that fails will prevent the owner from cranking and starting the car. You should perform a visual inspection on the battery anytime you have the hood up.

CAUTION: Always wear eye protection when working on a battery. Protect yourself from electrolyte splash, which can injure skin and eyes. Never smoke or create any spark around a battery or it might explode.

The first step in inspecting a battery is to look for obvious damage. You should look for:

• Cracked or bulged case or cover
  
• Signs of electrolyte leakage
  
• Frayed insulation on battery cables
• Corrosion buildup on terminals and posts
  
• Loose or missing holding hardware
• Electrolyte level (if the battery has cell vent caps)
  

Any physical damage to the battery indicates it must be replaced. Broken or damaged cables should also be replaced. Inspect the top of the battery for dirt or electrolyte. Too much electrolyte on the top of the battery may be the result of overfilling. If the top of the battery is not clean, current can flow across the foreign material. This will cause the battery to discharge by itself when the vehicle is idle. Check the battery hold-down to be sure it is tight. A loose hold-down could mean the active material has vibrated off the plates.

The electrolyte level should be checked monthly on older style non-maintenance-free batteries. During warm weather driving, these batteries lose water out of the cells. The higher the battery temperature and the higher the charge rate, the more gas that is developed and the faster the water loss. Long trips in hot weather subject the cells to high temperatures and high charging rates. These conditions mean the electrolyte level must be checked often. If the water drops too low, the battery will fail to function.

Older style batteries have cell vent caps. Low maintenance batteries have a pry-off cell cover. Remove the cell vent caps or use a screwdriver to pry off the cell cover to inspect the electrolyte level.

The electrolyte level should be well above the plates. Most manufacturers have a guide ring built into the top of the case above the cell. The electrolyte level should be filled to the level of the guide ring. If the electrolyte level is low, add water to the cell. Because regular tap water may have a high salt and mineral content, you should use distilled water. The water should be added with a plastic or rubber tool made for battery filling, not a metal funnel. A metal object could cause a short between the plates. Be sure not to overfill the cell. This would dilute the electrolyte strength and cause an acid buildup on the outside of the battery.


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WHAT IS A TUNE UP?

In today's world of electronic ignition and computer controlled fuel delivery systems, the idea of a tune-up may seem outdated. In the past, a tune-up included changing spark plugs and filters, as well as making basic engine adjustments such as timing, idle mixture, and idle speed. However, spark plugs last longer than ever before and recent advancements in engine management systems have made most of these basic adjustments unnecessary. So are tune-ups a thing of the past?

The tune-up may not be a thing of the past, but its definition has certainly changed. With the introduction of computer controls, there is a greater need for optimum performance by all the components in the system, including associated sensors, actuators, and other engine components. If even one sensor is out of calibration, it can upset the entire balance of emissions and fuel economy. An engine component failure such as a burned valve can cause major changes in engine operation. The excessive hydrocarbons can overheat the catalytic converter and the extra oxygen will drive the feedback system rich. That is why all parts must work together to achieve peak performance.

Performance is the operative word when discussing a modern tune-up. When a customer brings his or her car in and asks for a tune-up, they are really saying "I want my car to perform better." They do not understand things like closed loop fuel control, electronic spark timing, or idle air control systems, but they do know when their car is not behaving the same as it used to. Symptoms such as cold start problems, surging, poor fuel mileage, and dying at stops are just a few of the items that will cause a customer to come in and ask for a tune-up.

The term "tune-up" is familiar to most people. However, its meaning varies from one person to the next. Technicians generally think of a tune-up as replacing spark plugs and checking timing, idle speed and idle mixture. A customer may not think of a tune-up in the same way. After all, if a customer takes his bicycle in for a tune-up, he knows the bicycle mechanic won't install new spark plugs, but he does expect the bike to perform better when the work is completed. The brakes will be adjusted, the tires aired up, the chain oiled, and so on, all under the guise of a "tune-up."


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JUMP-STARTING YOUR VECHILE

Jump-starting is a way to replenish your battery. If you leave your lights on for an extended period of time, this will use up the battery and your car won't start. Sometimes a battery, for a variety of reasons, just won't be strong enough to start your car, and it needs a boost.

To jump-start your car, you'll need jumper cables and another car that is working well. Preferably, the other car will be at least as big as yours. If you've done your homework, you'll have prepared for this event by buying your own jumper cables and keeping them in your trunk.

Here's what you do:

• Open the hood and find out where your battery is. Then find the battery in the other car -- call it the "source" car.
  
• Drive the source car close enough to your car so that the jumper cables will reach from one battery to the other.
  
• Turn both engines off and put both cars in neutral or park. Put on the emergency brakes.
  
• Start with the red clips, which are for the positive terminals on your battery. Positive terminals have a "+" sign on them. Attach the red clips to the positive terminal of the dead battery and then to the battery of the source car, being very careful not to let the other clips touch each other. Never touch the metal on jumper cables.
  
• Attach the black clip closest to the source car to that cars' negative, or "-" terminal.
  
• Now connect the last unattached clip, the second black one, to something grounded - either to any exposed metal on your car's engine or on the car's frame.
  
• Start the source car, keeping the idle fairly fast.
  
• Then try to start your car. If nothing happens, make sure all the cables are connected properly, metal to metal. Let the source car run for a few minutes at a high idle, and try again. If it doesn't start again, you'll need a tow.
  
• If your car starts, keep it running for several minutes at a high idle, and turn off the source car.
  
• Disconnect the black cables first, taking care not to touch the cables to each other. Then disconnect the red cables.